Herbicide

Question: After a herbicide is sprayed, for how long does it linger in the area? My cat got out and laid down on a region of the yard sprayed with herbicide approximately eight hours prior. I do not know the type of herbicide, other than that it is for weeds. Could it have clung to the cat's fur? Should I bathe the cat?

Answer: I suggest you wash the cat thourougly.

Question: Is herbicide the only way to kill poison ivy? Also, after several application of herbicide such as round up, would a concrete slab keep the ivy at bay?

Answer: Pulling it up is probably the best way to make sure it's gone. Just be sure to wear gloves (preferably rubber ones) and long sleeves, and be careful not to contaminate yourself!

Question: What is the most effective green herbicide for spot control of weeds? There are new products on the market and older home remedies like vinegar. Which product to you think works best? I do not consider Roundup a green herbicide. Some of the new products have d-Limonene in them.

Answer: dog pee I have brown spots all over my lawn from my dog,anything acidic (vinegar) would be the ultimate in green herbicide

Question: What is herbicide physiology?Give its significe in the study of weeds and their control? What is herbicide physiology?Give its significe in the study of weeds and their control?

Answer: This refers to a study of the structure of the herb at both the cellular and gross structural level. It looks at defferent processes which occur in a specific herb. For example, the in respiration, the process of Oxidative Phosphorilation is slightly different from plant to plant. It therefore has different reaction mechanisms, which make it inhibited by ichemical inhibitors herbicides, some of which are alloztericinhibitors . When this occurs, the herb produces less ATP, which is need for the active tranport of ions. If these essential ions cannot be tranported to there needed site in the plant then the plant will die.

Question: What exactly is a herbicide? I am looking for something that will kill weeds and insects but not kill plants? We just cleaned out a bed...rather grueling work because of many weeds and vines...and are planting some giant, fork-leaved philodendrons and other non-flowering plants. My neighbor said we should treat the soil with a herbicide to prevent the weeds from coming back so soon....what exactly is that and what kind should we get? We live near New Orleans. Thanks!

Answer: It would be wiser to use some kind of mulch in your bed than something toxic like herbicide for weeds or insecticide for insects. You can use bark, layers of hay, or even layers of stones. It will prevent weeds from growing where you don't want them and allow water in. It keeps the soil moist and weeds out. You can purchse it at most big box stores if you don't have access to any. Check out the organic gardening magazine or a book on organic gardening for other tips on weed free planting. There are even plants you can grow, like marigolds, to repel certain insects. Happy gardening.

Question: How do you clean a spray tank after it has been used with herbicide? I want to use fertilizer and fungicide in the same tank that the herbicide was once in. How do I sanitize the tank so that no herbicide residue or traces are left behind?

Answer: Use a small amount of dish detergent on the first rinse. Then rinse with warm water a few more times. Make sure you also spray some out of the nozzle each time.

Question: How long must you generally wait for before spraying post emergent herbicide on the lawn after reseeding lawn? They say the post emergent herbicide will harm the new grass?? how do you know how long you should wait? why is that? Thanks for your answers!

Answer: I would wait several months. You need to wait until the grass is established, and can handle walking on, mowing, etc. Tiny seedlings without much in the way of roots can be harmed by herbicide.

Question: How many times should I spray herbicide on a plant? my classmates and i are doing a project for chemistry. i just wanted to know how many times should i spray herbicide on my plant? Everyday or once a week? im not really sure. thanks!!

Answer: One dose of undiluted round up will kill a plant within a few hours. Vinegar is a natural herbicide. So, your chem teacher is teaching you to kill flora, interesting.

Question: What is the most environmentally safe herbicide? What is the most environmentally safe herbicide? I need both the common name and the active chemical.

Answer: Glyphosate(or roud up) in it's many forms is considered to be fairly safe, with a lethal dose that is lower than that of table salt. I personally think, as a pesticide appliator, that none of them are all that safe. All pesticides that I have come in contact with are fairly dangerous chemicals, although I have heard of new pesticides that are coming out that are amazingly safe- but I will believe it when I see it!

Question: How long do you have to wait to plant grass after using a herbicide? When I moved in to my house they had put sod down,and it did not end up doing well,so now I have to pull all the sod up till the soil and plant grass seed,but there is also a problem with bind weed in my lawn so I need to use an herbicide to eliminate that prior to replanting my lawn so after I do this when can I lay seed?

Answer: If you used a true herbicide, you don't have to wait long till you sow grass seed -- 2 weeks should do it. If you are using a germination inhibitor (like crabgrass preventer) you won't be able to reseed for several months.

Question: Is it possible for dandelions and clovers to grow in a garden sprayed with herbicide? What factors (sun, rain, etc.) could cause this to happen? If certain chemicals influence their growth despite going through herbicide treatment, what are their names? Please, I don't need detailed answers. I just need a list of a few factors. And no this is not happening in my garden now. I said what if the garden was sprayed with herbicide. You didn't really address this, so I'm not sure if you are saying "yes" to my whole question...

Answer: u spray with herbicide and it kills existing weeds. then it rains and all herbicide goes under earth. and your soil is free of herbicide again. then new seeds come with wind or birds or even on your shoes soles. and here u have new weeds. did i address your question correctly?

Question: Invasive Bamboo roots under concrete how to remove with herbicide? We have the bamboo roots running under the concrete going to our gunite swimming pool. I have the roots isolated and I cannot get under the cement, which herbicide do I use? and how do I completely kill the roots?

Answer: Any herbicide with Roundup's active ingredient Glyphosate . GOOD LUCK... Compilation..of ideas...Hope one works for you.. One idea: cut it down to the ground ,,,and lower...(drench with roundup) then pour six inches of concrete over it. Not growing through & it has been two years Removing a Running Bamboo http://www.americanbamboo.org/GeneralInfoPages/ControllingBamboo.html If new shoots of bamboo are coming up all over your yard, it is a running bamboo. To get rid of it, there are four steps: 1.Cut it off. 2.Cut it down. 3.Water the area. 4.Cut it down again. 1. Cut it off. All of the culms (stalks) of bamboo in a clump or grove are interconnected underground by rhizomes (underground stems) unless you have cut them by digging a ditch or cutting a line with a spade. A bamboo grove is usually one single plant, not a group of plants. Many people have the impression that every bamboo culm is a separate “tree.” If the bamboo in your yard has come across from your neighbor’s yard, separate your grove from his by cutting the connecting rhizomes, which are usually quite shallow. If you don’t, and his part is healthy and vigorous, the rhizomes in your part will still be supported by the photosynthesis in the leaves of his part, and your efforts will be in vain. On the other hand, if you do manage to kill your part with a herbicide you may also kill his part. Lawsuits or at least hard feelings can result. Therefore, be sure to isolate the portion you want to keep from the portion you want to kill. Cutting rhizomes with a spade or a saw will do the trick if you do it every year. If the growth is old, you may need to use a mattock or a digging bar the first time. Digging a ditch and putting in a barrier* is a more permanent solution. 2. Cut it down Cut the grove to the ground. All of it. If there is any part you want to keep, see (1). 3. Water and fertilize the area, to cause new growth. 4. Cut it down again. And again. New shoots will come up from the rhizomes. Break them off or cut them off with pruning shears. Keep doing this until no more shoots come up. This will exhaust the energy stored in the rhizomes underground. Without green leaves to photosynthesize and produce new energy, they will no longer be able to send up new shoots. The rhizomes will be left behind, but will rot away. That’s all you need to do. You need a saw, a pair of pruning shears, and patience, and maybe a spade and/or mattock. The widely advertised herbicides don’t work well on bamboo, probably because so much of the plant is underground. Since cutting the bamboo down will do the trick, and you have to cut the bamboo down anyway to remove it from your yard, herbicides are a waste of time and money in this case. *Barriers: To prevent a running bamboo from spreading, a “rhizome barrier” is essential. A barrier two or three feet deep is effective. It should be slanted outward at the top so that when the rhizomes hit the barrier they will bend upwards. A barrier does not stop a running rhizome; it only deflects it. The barrier should project an inch or two above ground level. Check the barrier once a year, and cut off rhizomes that arch over the top. Barriers can be concrete, or metal, or plastic. The usual recommendation is high-density polypropylene, 40 mil or heavier, glued or taped at junctions, or clamped with stainless-steel clamps. This material comes in rolls, or as hinged sections, and is available from some landscape suppliers and bamboo nurseries, frequently termed root barrier. More elaborate barriers with corner posts that hold the material at the proper angle are also available. A pond or stream can also act as an effective barrier. Bamboo rhizomes will jump an improperly installed barrier. However, properly installed, it will at least deflect the rhizomes so they are visible above ground and can be removed before they have the chance to spread outward. It is important that the barrier extend several inches above the soil line for this purpose. A ditch or stream is also a useful containment option. However, it is necessary to monitor the grove once a year, trimming off any renegade rhizomes. In some cases simply mowing the new shoots regularly or even kicking them over will suffice. the most accepted method of containment is to excavate a trench 30 inches deep and line it with “rhizome barrier”, a heavy plastic sheeting designed to control aggressive plants. Most are 40 mil thick, but a custom 60-mil product can be made (60 mil is about one-twentieth of an inch). The pieces must be clamped together with special metal straps and bolts, the side facing the bamboo should be angled so that the roots are always deflected up (if its leaning the wrong way, the roots can get under the barrier, especially in loose fertile soil), there should be a lip above ground, and you should always be pruning back any culms that come up right next to the barrier. And that’s just the short take—here’s a link to more detailed containment directions from Ned’s excellent website: http://www.bamboogarden.com/barrier.htm. (Note: Just about any specialized bamboo nursery will carry rhizome barrier and fasteners, and—perhaps most important—be able to recommend professionals to do the actual work. I get tired just thinking about it!) You can also contain running bamboo with a steam or other form of water that does not include a liner (they’ll sneak under it). A wide, deep ditch filled with gravel will also stop them, as will a real road—but they’ll sneak under a typical asphalt driveway. You could also pour concrete. “Bamboo Ric” Venzie and I have often discussed using sheet metal or corrugated roofing plastic as a kind of Cowboy Rhizome Barrier, but Ned and Ric both warn that the pieces would have to be fastened together perfectly to prevent the rhizomes from sneaking through. Eradicating running bamboo is tough. Take a good look at that advancing grove—it’s actually one big plant, all growing out of one giant rhizome. The backhoe option is a good one; use it to remove every blessed piece of rhizome, which of course you won’t be able to do. But any new culms that sprout up from rhizome shreds will be individuals; you should be able to dig these little orphans up and be done. But be warned; if it’s coming over from a neighbor, you’ll still need a rhizome barrier to stop future incursions. If you have the patience, Ric and many others report success starving the roots. Cut the entire grove to the ground, preferably beginning in the Spring, when the rhizome has the least inherent energy. Let it re-grow until leaves appear on the culms, then cut it again. And again…. Producing culms takes a lot of energy out of that big honkin’ rhizome underground, but the culms can’t collect solar energy to feed it—only leaves can. Ric says you’ll see each successive run getting weaker, until finally, what he calls ‘the last gasp’ will appear—a final desperate spurt of growth that looks more like zoysia grass than bamboo. That’s the time to soak the area with a 20% vinegar or other intense non-chemical herbicide (see last week’s Q of the Week for all the details) and finish it off. Ric says he’s been able to eradicate groves this way in 3 or 4 years. If that’s too long for you, I got two words: “backhoe”. OK—its actually one word. detailed directions on long-term grove eradication for the American Bamboo web site. Here’s the link: http://www.americanbamboo.org/GeneralInfoPages/ControllingBamboo.html.)amboos. Folks, I have lived through the horror of bamboo growing out of control and got rid of it. First by doing all the wrong things, then by understanding how it grows and conquering it. I panicked and tried Roundup, including cutting stalks and drilling down to the roots and pouring the concentrated roundup directly down to the roots. This took much time and didn't work, plus I broke a special 14 inch drill bit I had bought just for that purpose. I tried digging it out, but there was so much, I couldn't go fast enough to get it all, and didn't have enough time or energy to spend on it. Also, within 6 months all the roots that I had dug out were replaced by new roots put out by other stalks, and they grew in exactly the same place as the old roots, because I had loosened up the earth where I had dug them previously. During all this, I noticed that every single one of the plants were connected together by the roots. No shoot was an island, it was connected to another underground, whether 5 inches, or 20 feet away. I also learned that if the roots come up out of the ground to jump over another root or obstruction near the surface of the ground, that exposed root was green. I learned that even these green roots were photosynthesizing and feeding the root. By the way, I had put a bunch of the roots with big clods of dirt still cling to them in a large Rubbermaid garbage can and put a top on it, sealing it. 6 months later, I opened the can, and found about 40 new shoots about a foot long growing inside the can - in complete darkness. I used 2 combined methods to get rid of it, but one was labor intensive, and the easier way will work, though probably not quite as quickly. They key is the root. It must be starved. That's the only way to kill it that I found. First, I bought some little plastic flags like you see used to mark where electrical or phone lines are buried under ground. I marked where all the growing canes were. Next, I cut down every single solitary cane. I cut it at or slightly below ground level by using a set of large lopers. I don't mean some of the canes, or most of the canes, I mean every single one. This is very important. The mistake I had kept making was to try to kill one area of the cane, but other areas would feed that areas root, and it would keep sprouting or gro

Question: What is the name and brand of a selective herbicide that will rid my lawn of perennial rye grass? What is the name and brand of a selective herbicide that will rid my lawn of perennial rye grass and not harm the kentucky blue grass?

Answer: rye grass is not a weed - I doubt anything will specifically kill just that and not all the grass

Question: Will Scotts plus 2 fertilizer with the post emergent herbicide harm grass seed? I only have this type of fertilizer in my garage and am wishing to promote new seed growth, Yet it has the plus 2 herbicide as well as the fertilizer. will it harm the grass seed at all? (mind you this is the post ermergent and not the pre emergent) Thanks for your answers!

Answer: All preemergents deter seed ( of any type ) germination. Dont put it out.................. Littlte late for grass seed . It wont have rooy development to establish and will probably die in the heat.

Question: Can I lime now then herbicide when stuff starts getting green? The grass i would lime over is about 6-10 inches tall and I will be using liquid lime.. I just want to know if I can lime now, herbicide later and be ok with not wasting the lime... Thanks

Answer: You will be fine. The lime changes the acidity of the soil. It does not depend on weather, moisture or any other outside influence. My husband says "Go For It Now". A job done is a job done.

Question: I need a non chemical herbicide to kill my lawn in order to level and replant. Ideas? I have read that vinegar is a herbicide but I don't know if it will work for this large of a job. Any help is appreciated.

Answer: Vinegar sprayed onto brambles after they have been cut will kill them or retard their growth. I have never heard that it will work on grass. You could try cutting a small area and spraying it with vinegar to see what effect it has. I would use Roundup which does not harm the soil. It will effectively kill the grass if used per the instructions. Another method that can be used on cracks or small areas is boiling water. It will kill weeds and grasses pushing through cracks in your sidewalk or other small areas but would be time consuming if the area is bigger