Cavity

Question: cavity...........? ok so i had a tooth with a cavity and it was loose. i pulled out the tooth. is that bad. do i need to get it replaced. is the tooth still in the gum.. help

Answer: I think it's painful pulling it out but if the tooth was a molar, you probably have some of the root still in the gum. I would suggest you see a dentist who can have an x-ray done just to make sure there's nothing left in there. If there's something left in the gum, it'll have to be extracted. If you don't see a dentist and there's teeth left in the gum, it's gonna hurt after a while, it may take months or a year even but it'll hurt. I know cuz i've seen someone with the same problem before and the only solution was to take the remove whatever piece of tooth was stuck in there. Of course, i have had half of a tooth filling come of and nothing really happened. you can try the wait and see thingy to see it it hurts but remember, a stitch in time saves nine. good luck.

Question: CAvity!!!!!!!!? How do you know when you are gettign a cavity I have a dentist appointment on the 17 and I am hoping that I dont have a cavity. I brush 1 to 2 times a day. please help

Answer: well, you could sort of feel it i have a cavity on my front tooth and when i press on it it hurts :( it sucks

Question: What is the Q-Factor of a laser cavity? What is the energy stored in it? I've got the deffinition of Q-factor in a laser cavity as Q=2 x PI x energy stored in cavity / energy loss per cycle. How do I find the energy stored in the cavity? Basically, I've got the question: "The output in a gas laser with a cavity length of 1m transmits 0.5% of the incident light at a wavelength of 488nm. Ignoring other losses in the system, calcuate the Q-factor of the cavity and the cavity lifetime." (I've also got the cavity lifetime to be, Q= freq x cavity lifetime, for the last bit of the question.) Thanks.

Answer: The .5% is the energy loss per cycle of the *incident* light. That means 95% is reflected. So the loss per cycle is 0.005 times 1/(1+.95) of the total energy in the cavity (since the latter includes both incident and reflected), or 0.00256. According to your definition, then, Q is 2 pi times the inverse of this.

Question: What's the difference between cavity and blade golf club heads? I understand blades are for more skilled players and cavity is a little easier to hit. I just bought a set of irons that is a cavity, but with some blade aspects. Seems to be a hybrid or something. As a beginner I know that I may have a little trouble, but should these be ok for me? I don't mind a learning curve and rather be practicing with clubs I can grow with.

Answer: Cavity Backed clubs or Perimeter Weighted is a iron designed with the majority of its mass located around the perimeter of the face. this gives the club a much larger sweet spot thus making them more forgiving to miss hits or off-center hits. Blades have a more uniform weight distribution which leaves a much smaller sweet spot. This makes these clubs unforgiving to the off center hit but provides the golfer with much more feel and workability. If you are learning to play golf, only go with a perimeter weighted club design...then when you are a 10 handicap and you need to really start working a ball, then go get yourself the Forged Blades !

Question: How long after having a cavity filled will you know if you need a root canal? Friday morning I had a cavity filled. The dentist said that it was deep and I might need a root canal if it hurts afterward. My question is: how long after will the pain appear or some other indication that I need a root canal done? It is now Monday afternoon and the tooth feels no different than before the cavity was filled (no pain or increased sensitivity, etc.). Am I in the clear?

Answer: you know, i have the same problem. the reason why your dentist said u need a root canal is because your filling is really close to your nerve. so when the filling touches the nerve you would feel pain. however, i have two fillings that are really deep (like my cavity took up my entire teeth) and my dentist said the same thing. he said this about two years ago. my advice to you is to go and get a second opinion. because so far, i have no pain. so go get a second opinion and if your second opinion says you need one, then you should get it. if he/she says no, then wait it out. however, your not in the clear, because years down the road, your going to need to redo your filling....so maybe then you would need to do the procedure. good luck and i hope this was usefull information :)

Question: How can I prevent a cavity from getting worse until my dentist appointment? I have a cavity that started out as what looked like a chip on one of my back molars but it's progressively getting worse and looking like a little hole. My dentist is really backed up and I couldn't get an appointment until early June. I brush and floss everyday but just have a tendency to get cavities no matter what. Any advice on how to slow it down? I've never needed a root canal and plan to keep it that way..

Answer: No, there's not any way to slow it down. You said you get cavities easily - watch and control all your sugar sources - don't sip on sodas, don't sip on coffee, no chewing gum (unless it's sugarless) no sucking on hard candies or chewing sticky caramels, or raisins, etc don't snack Brush and floss after every single meal and make sure your technique is correct. Tell your dentist so that they can give you a prescription-strength fluoride that can protect your teeth much better than toothpaste.

Question: What causes nasal cavity and what should i do do minimize the chance of having it? What causes nasal cavity and what should i do do minimize the chance of having it? How do i know if i have int?

Answer: go to school and study biology, microbiology, anatomy and get ready to be a doctor!! You definitely have the brain for it. If you want to minimize the chances of getting it, stick your head in a plastic bag and tie it tightly around your neck. Do not remove for about 10 days.

Question: How do the dentists fix a cavity that is inbetween two teeth? I have a cavity that is inbetween 2 teeth, and so how will they get at the cavity to fix it?

Answer: They have to access it from the top surface, so they drill a little bit on the top part of the tooth first.

Question: How windproof should the ceiling/roof cavity of a brand new house be? Our new home allows so much breeze through the roof cavity (between the roof and ceiling) that it literally sucks the manhole cover entirely off and flings it 'somewhere' in the roof cavity. Our builder is saying that this is perfectly normal but I cant ever remember any other house I have ever lived in with a similar problem. Can anyone advise me if this is normal or not?

Answer: No that is not normal. The "manhole cover." I think that you are referring to the attic access.?. It is usually located on the second floor, in the ceiling inside of a walk-in closet or in a hallway. It is framed, trimmed out with a piece of 3/8" board as the cover which sits on the ledge created by the framing. As far as your attic and the truss system (the framing that your sheathing and roof shingles ride on). First off if there is no blown insulation that is one issue (not related to this problem but still an issue). Blown insulation looks like cotton candy/fluffy snow and should cover the base of your truss system to a dept of 12-16" I believe. I am not sure if that is per spec as it has been a while since I knew this stuff by heart. Nonetheless, if it is not there all you will see up there is the base of the truss system and the wall board/drywall which is the covering for your second floor ceiling. Breeze/heat gain/heat loss: These homes are built to have your HVAC (Heating Ventilation Air Condition/Cooling), which is a 'forced air' system, work in conjunction with your home's framing, insulation, sheathing, windows, and insulation. As far as the attic/truss system the issue that may be at fault is your ridge vent or lack there of. See here: http://www.gklemmroofing.com/images/ridgevent.htm If this component is not installed properly you will experience heat gain/loss and you will hear/experience drafts. Remember that you do want some ventilation from your attic just not total. The properly installed ridge vent is meant to assist in this. Another potential problem will be the soffit. See here: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1360/548942160_79df25da8d.jpg If this element is installed in-correctly or in an half-assed manner you will experience drafts because this element will provide a path for wind to flow into your attic. If BOTH elements (ridge vent and soffit) are incorrect then wind will blow in through your soffit, up through the attic/truss system, and out through the top of your roof/in properly installed ridge vent or if the ridge vent was not installed and the roof sheathing and associated shingles were made flush at the peak then your attic is not ventilated at all and could result in a sucking action. Some other items to consider: When you experience high wind days/nights, do your hear/experience whistling/sucking/breezes near windows? If the answer is yes then another problem to address is the insulation behind your drywall/around windows. I would also check your doors leading outside. Do they present drafts etc. If so then you will need to check not only the insulation around the door frame but the door itself. Chances are that it was not 'set' properly. What I mean by that is, when the door was put into your home it was not checked and shimmed properly to insure that it was not only level and plumb (not racked or leaning) but also operating (with the sweep installed) smoothly. Just some of the items I was able to come up with off the top of my head. Hope this helps. By the way, if you have purchased this home through a production builder (non-custom builder) then you should check through your warranties etc. and I would definitely add them to your 30-day list of discrepancies. This 30 day list is pretty common and is used by builders to insure quality. It is given to the home owner at closing and allows you to move-in and note problems so the builder can in turn correct them. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Question: How is it possible to get a cavity on a tooth that has a sealant? I went to the dentist yesterday and it turns out i have my very first cavity on the top of one of my back teeth. The thing is i have a sealant on that tooth. How can i have a cavity? I'm guessing it's under the sealant because i can't see any decay or discoloration on that tooth.

Answer: yes you can. i am currently experiencing the same problem with mine..even though it was sealed, it developed a little hole. then i now have to go and get it looked after. So go do the same and don't let the little hole become a huge pain.

Question: What is the radius of the spherical cavity? An irregularly shaped chunk of concrete has a hollow spherical cavity inside. The mass of the chunk is 33kg & the Volume enclosed by the surface of the chunk is 0.025 cubic meters. What is the radius of the spherical cavity? ...I just attended classes last friday, I havent catch-up with the Prof's Lesson yet. Can you please help me to solve this. Thanks in advance!

Answer: You need to know the density of concrete. This is around 2400 kg/m³. This means 33 kg of concrete should have a volume of 33/2400 = 0.01375 m³; however the actual volume given is 0.025 m³. The difference, 0.025 - 0.01375 = 0.01125 m³ is the volume of the spherical cavity. The volume of a sphere is (4/3)*π*r³, so (4/3)*π*r³ = 0.01125 r = ³√[0.01125*3/(4*π)] r = 0.139 m

Question: what is the difference in the thoracic cavity in mammals and in reptiles? If in reptiles, the thoracic cavity contains the liver, stomach, and intestine. Then what does it contain in mammals if the stomach, liver, and intestine are housed in the peritoneal cavity?

Answer: There is no diaphragm in reptiles. Their cavities are all together without any separation.

Question: How much will it cost to have cavity wall ties replaced? How much would it cost to have the front and back of a mid-size terrace house cavity wall ties replaced? Also can cavity insulation be done at the same time and if so how much more will this add onto the cost? Work is in Bristol - UK. Thank you!

Answer: The ONLY way to arrive at the best answer for this question is to invite estimates/bids of local tradesmen/contractors.

Question: How much does it cost to fill a cavity? Hey, I got my tooth cleaned and put a medicine on in Spain in the winter and they told me I have to fill out the cavity in the US (where I live currently) after 6 months. How much does filling out a cavity cost in the US? I know that different states is different. I live in Texas. Thanks!

Answer: Around $100+. Depending on the surface level of filling you need. Don't forget to factor in Xrays and exams. I paid only $60 for my filling and $30 for my initial exam because of this great plan I have. I would encourage you to visit this great site: www.healthsavings.ourperfectcard.com I signed up online over 5 years ago and they have saved me thousands on all dental services. Even my braces. They even had my extremely affordable benefits active in 2 hours and was able to use them the very same day. Hope this helps.

Question: How is it getting a cavity filled at the dentist? I have an appointment to get a cavity filled tomorrow at the dentist & I'm scared to death! OMG I feel like I'm about to give birth or something lol cause I never experienced it so I'm really nervous about it. How is it?? Any tips?

Answer: getting cavity filled is not a very big deal. your dentist before cleaning the tooth will numb the area and you will not even come to know about the procdure. for more information on this topic you can visit the following link http://www.identalhub.com/ArticleSubCategories.aspx?ArticleCategoryId=19&Name=Fillings

Question: How effective is Cavity wall insulation? Does cavity wall insulation really improve the heat loss in a house? My flat feels very cold and wonder if cavity wall insulation will have a very noticeable feel?

Answer: Yes it will greatly reduce your heat loss. There are some things you should know though. Not all insulation is the same. The advertised R-Value of the insulating material is the R-Value in a lab test situation. When you install the insulation in a wall, a couple of factors bring that number down. Firstly, the entire wall is not filled with insulation. Only the cavity between the studs is insulated. The wood studs (I'm assuming this is what you have on a hunch), are much less resistant to heat flow. These become thermal bridges that bypass that insulation. Framing can make up 20% of the wall in many cases. Continuous rigid insulation will cover the entire wall and break those thermal bridges but that is not so practical for a retrofit. So anyway, installing R-19 insulation does not get you an R-19 wall. It is more likely to give you an R-12 or so. Of course since you have no insulation currently, this will be a drastic improvement. Secondly, insulation is of little use if it is not installed properly. Air must not be allowed to circulate in the cavity. The cavity must be completely filled with insulation. I once heard a great analogy that was something like "If you cut a blanket into many small pieces and lay it over you, you will not feel warm" (John Straube). You need a continuous air barrier, and a it must be contiguous to your insulation. If it's not, the heat will flow by convection in the air space. In fact this happens in any airspace greater than 1/4 inch. What I would recommend that you do is have a qualified insulator blow dense packed cellulose into your walls. This is a product made from recycled newspapers. If blown to a density of at least 3.2 lbs/cubic ft, it will provide an air tight cavity and will not require that you install any vapor diffusion retarder. Cellulose is good at regulating moisture in the wall and is also fairly fire resistant at high density. One last thing, make sure all the cavities get filled. Make sure the installer pays attention to where framing members are. PS. There is one situation where cavity insulation should absolutely never be used. Always use continuous insulation with steel studs. Steel is such a good conductor that any insulation between the steel is of no use. It's unfortunate but this is actually a very common building practice that leads to sick buildings with mold problems and high heating costs.